Perfect Pitch

Uruguay vs. Netherlands
El Chivito D’Oro
8402 37th Ave
Jackson Heights, NY 11372
(718) 424-0600

Because of my work schedule, I wasn't planning to arrive at El Chivito D’Oro in Jackson Heights, Queens, until a few minutes after the start of the Uruguay-Netherlands game would start, so I had low expectations for getting a good vantage point. I was certainly right. This would be my first foray into Jackson Heights but not my first in Urruguayn culture. I spent a very limited amount of time in Montevideo when I was younger. One of the only things I remember about my experience there was the immense and impressive BBQ meal I had of assorted grilled meats. I was hoping that El Chivito D’ Oro would at least slightly represent this, and based on the Yelp reviews I had read, I was expecting it to.

Getting off the subway at 82nd Street on the 7, I didn't sense it was a strictly Uruguayan neighborhood, but one composed of all different Latino cultures. When I turned onto 37th Street, I began to note the Uruguayan influence. There were Uruguayan flags everywhere, Uruguayan businesses, many different locations with people transfixed by the TV, and other various representations of Uruguayan culture.

I recognized my destination from afar when I noticed the people standing on the street, ducking and bobbing their heads in attempt to get a clear view of the game. I then realized my assumptions of not getting a good vantage point were correct. I was able to push my way into the entrance of the restaurant, where I proceeded to watch the game leaning against the order area and straining to view the small TV all the way on the other side of the restaurant. The entire crowd was in front of me, facing me at an angle, and looking at the TV that I could not see to my right. With my view skewed, I couldn't really enjoy the game, but I would be able to get some good reaction shots.

The one thing I did have a good view of was the food being prepared. Various cuts of beef steaks and types of sausage were being thrown on the grill and prepared seemingly to perfection. It took me back to my experience in Montevideo. Despite it being really crowded, and my not being able to see the game except for the replay slow-motion closeups, I did have one distinct advantage, a counter. While everyone was crammed together I had a space to eat. I started with the chicken empanada.

Don’t tell the Paraguayans, but in comparison to the Pararguayan chicken and egg empanada, I liked this one better. The meat in the Uruguayan empanada was just all around more flavorful and had a better cooking consistency. You could tell the chicken was grilled just right within it. Not to mention the outside of the empanada was more crispy, it almost reminded me of the crust of an apple pie.

Despite not being able to watch the game the way I wanted to, I could tell it was an exciting one. The Netherlands scored very early, and it did not dampen the spirits of the Uruguayans as they continued sing, chant and root for their team. It paid off in the 41st minute as tied it up on a beautiful long distance goal. My vantage point helped me get some great pictures of the celebration.

During halftime the crowd quickly escaped to the street, for some much needed fresh air. Similarly to the Algerians, they brought out the drums and began dancing, shouting, waving flags and singing. They seemed to be genuinely proud of what they were accomplising, and nervously excited to see if Uruguay could reclaim the winning pedigree that it established by winning two of the first three World Cup tournaments.

The second half started and I started to get my chow down. I ordered an Entrana (skirt steak) sandwich. It was fabulous. Grilled to perfection, well done and crispy on the outside and then medium in the middle (although I usually prefer medium rare ... should've specified). The cut itself was tender enough for me to bite through it and not effect my sandwich-eating experience. Included in the sandwich was also lettuce, tomatoes and onions. I don’t think you can truly have Uruguayan steaks without visiting the country, but the sandwich itself was very good.

The Netherlands dominated the second half, capped by two goals in the 70th and 72nd minutes that seemed to deflate the spirits of the Uruguayans around me. Yet as the Dutch focused their energy on defense to hold the lead, the Uruguayans were given the opporunity to attack, and they sure did. Toward the end the Uruguayans put in one more and continued the press. By the way they were playing I actually thought they could put one in to tie it, and so did the patrons around me. There were some truly exciting moments and opportunities that eleicited yells and groans from the crowd. But the whistle blew and it was too little too late. Most fans graciously accepted the loss and noted the success of their team by clapping and singing. A few others couldn't control their passions and began to cry.

The party seeped back out onto the street where the Uruguayans continued to show respect to their team by singing, playing bongos and waving flags. I noticed there there was a police van there, probably in case the Uruguayans pulled off a win and celebrated excessively. Regardless, I would really like to enjoy the experience of Chivito D’ Oro some time for a sit-down meal when it isn't so crowded. I especially would like to try their sampler platter of all the different meats. It certianly aroused my interests when I saw people chowing down. So until I get the urge for some large portions of South American meats (which will probably be sooner rather than later), I bid farewell to the Uruguayans. They had a great run while it lasted.

-- FRANCISCO SIERRA